Visited: Very early spring
Recommendation: This is a remote but stunning national park with a small but excellent campsite. The surrounding forest is full of animal activity and well worth a stay for a few days.
Mooraback Campground in Werrikimbe National Park is another remote forest campground and it took quite a bit of time to get here, it's 35km from the main road between Port Maquarie and Walcha. It was narrow back roads, partly sealed, partly unsealed but very beautiful passing across some beautiful pasture land and open woods. As we were driving late in the afternoon the sun was going down, it was incredibly pretty. There were lots of small Swamp Wallabies around but they were very skittish. We also thought we saw Whiptail Wallabies and of course the Eastern Grey Kangaroos were in good numbers. We reached the campsite just as dark had fallen so there wasn't much to do that night.
During daylight hours, the roos and whiptails grazed on the grass around the campground but we didn't see the Swamp Wallabies again.
Eastern Grey Kangaroo (Macropus giganteus)
Whiptail Wallaby (Macropus parryi)
Early in the morning the birds started and there was a lot of them, there was a Rose Robin resident right next to our campsite and a Grey Fantail kept a regular eye on us from its perch next to us. There was a lot of activity. The information board gave details of a couple of tracks, a short one and a longer one. We were tired so I went on the short walk and it was absolutely beautiful. It started behind the campground and wound up slightly up through the forest with a couple of small lookouts over the gullies. A creek also ran just behind our campsite.
Grey Fantail (Rhipidura albiscapa)
Rose Robin (Petroica rosea)
The short track was very active and although it was only 500 metres it took me a good hour to get round it. A Grey Fantail followed me most of the way which was really sweet. There were more Rose Robin calling up here. A resident Pied Currawong was obviously familiar with campers. We have found them in these more remote campsites sitting on a perch, watching us. They are presumably looking for scraps.
Pied Currawong (Strepera graculina)
Shining Bronze-Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx lucidus)
As it was early in the spring there were lots of cuckoos calling. The forest rang with the shrill call of the Shining Bronze Cuckoo and the trill of the Fan-tailed Cuckoo. The shining I find is a bit more cooperative and I saw several during my stay here. The fan-tailed, however, stuck high up in the trees where they are very cryptic.
As I walked around the track through the forest, I saw a couple of Red-browed Treecreepers, which I'm still really keen to get good photographs of, but they were moving quite quickly and a bit far away. Again, I had to settle for an ID shot only.
Red-browed Treecreeper (Climacteris erythrops)
The forest track wound around and past the creek again. There was a lot of different vegetation and many bird species were flitting around. It took some patience to get the thornbills but I was pleased to get a good look at the striated in particular.
Brown Thornbill (Acanthiza pusilla)
Striated Thornbill (Acanthiza lineata)
The Eastern Yellow Robin was here of course but I never tire of their cheery presence. The Golden Whistler was calling and calling and it was good to see a stunning male bird.
Eastern Yellow Robin (Eopsaltria australis)
Golden Whistler (Pachycephala pectoralis)
I could hear oriole calling in the forest but only got a quick glimpse of one. The Yellow-faced Honeyeater was also loud and active. I have found them to be often in groups zooming around the trees. I only once saw them briefly stop.
Olive-backed Oriole (Oriolus sagittatus)
Yellow-faced Honeyeater (Lichenostomus chrysops)
As is often the case, my campervan made a great hide and when I got tired of doing laps around the forest I sat in the back and watched as birds came and went. A Red-browed Firetail sat and preened and a Spotted Pardalote surveyed the trees for nesting holes.
Red-browed Firetail (Neochmia temporalis)
Spotted Pardalote (Pardalotus punctatus)
And, of course, the Superb Fairywren chattered in their group as they searched the grass of the campsite.
Superb Fairywren (Malurus cyaneus)
We went out that night as soon as it was dark. We could already hear three, at least, Boobooks calling. We started off walking along the road and looking in the clearings to see if we could see any wombats. There was plenty of evidence of them. We didn't see the burrows, but we did see their poo, which is interesting because it's cube-shaped. However, on this occasion, we didn't see them either.
Our first animal was a Tawny Frogmouth, which is pretty standard. They are always nice to see and they very often sit up for you. Then we saw a possum. We knew there were mountain brushtail possums here, so we were hopeful about seeing them. They are very dark possums and it was clear this wasn't one.
Unfortunately, just as I was raising my camera, I tripped and fell. Professional as I am, though, my first instinct was to protect the camera, so I did a kind of commando roll, came up on my knees, got the shot of the possum. My other half thought it was hilariously funny, but I had the last laugh because I got it shot.
Common Brushtail Possum (Trichosurus vulpecula)
Tawny Frogmouth (Podargus strigoides)
After we'd walked around the paddocks a little while, with no success on the wombats, we headed back towards the short track around the campsite. There were lots of small frogs calling. We think they were little crinaea species, which are very difficult to find unless you dig them up.
We walked along the forest track looking for gliders. Apparently, there are Powerful and Masked Owls in the area but we only continued to hear Boobooks. On the track we did see a bandicoot and I crept quite slowly towards it and it didn't seem to mind my presence and got some good shots before it finally got spooked by the crackling of leaves and took off.
Northern Brown Bandicoot (Isoodon macrourus)
In the next morning, I wandered the area again and came across a pair of Crimson Rosella feeding on the ground. We had seen them around the area but they wouldn't let us get anywhere near them. I approached these birds slowly and surprisingly, they let me get within a few metres. They were quite stunning.
Crimson Rosella (Platycercus elegans)