Visited: dry season
Recommendation: There are several walks around the gorge but they can be very exposed, hot and difficult. Local advice was that there is not much wildlife to see past the Baruwei Lookout. Around the visitor's centre is a great place to see a range of birds. If you are not a big hiker, then stay around there and the grassy areas close to the boat ramp.
Katherine Gorge was formed over millions of years through a combination of geological processes. Firstly, the Katherine River, flowing through the region, gradually eroded the sandstone rock over time. The river's powerful current and sediment carried by its waters carved out deep gorges and canyons. Wind, rain, and temperature fluctuations also contributed to the erosion process. These elements caused the sandstone to break down, creating cracks and crevices that the river could exploit. Lastly, the region's geological history also played a role. Uplifting forces caused the land to rise, creating a steeper gradient for the river to flow through. This increased the river's erosive power.
Over millions of years, these processes combined to form the dramatic and intricate landscape of Katherine Gorge. The result is a series of stunning gorges, waterfalls, and billabongs that are a popular tourist destination today.
When I visited in late September, it was very hot and I decided to take it easy and walk to the Baruwei Lookout. I had been told by local birdwatchers that the upper parts of the look walk were too hot and barren to see much activity.
Gilbert's Dragon (Lophognathus gilberti)
Pacific Koel (Eudynamys scolopacea)
After completing the Baruai Lookout Walk, I came down via the boat ramp and there you can find several shady grassed areas with picnic tables and the boat ramp itself. This is where that the cruises leave from. It's a little bit cooler and that was where I started to see wildlife. First up I could hear the Pacific Koel calling and I tracked down several male birds in some sort of territorial dispute or general bickering. They sat quite high up so I didn't get standout shots but I'm always pleased to see them, they're quite charismatic. Close by was a Gilbert's Dragon sitting out enjoying the sunshine. These are two-lined dragons and quite common in the area.
There were kingfishers in this grassed area as well. The Forest Kingfisher obviously had chicks nearby and was very active in gathering food, bugs and worms, lizards etc. to take back to its chicks. A Blue-winged Kookaburra was around calling occasionally with its maniacal song. They tend to be actually quite shy though so they don't stick around very much for photographs. The blue tail on this bird indicates that it's a male, the female having being brown. This was a very nice area to spot wildlife.
Forest Kingfisher (Todiramphus macleayii)
Blue-winged Kookaburra (Dacelo leachii)
I went back up to the visitor's centre and while having a cup of coffee, I saw a Giant Grasshopper sitting on one of the chairs in the cafe. It was enormous, it was so big that people were coming out to photograph it with their phones, so it was quite a celebrity. It is the largest grasshopper in Australia with adults reaching lengths of up to 90mm.
They have a mottled grey to pale brown coloration, providing excellent camouflage among foliage (but not cafes). Their hind legs are particularly powerful, adapted for jumping.
They are commonly found in various habitats across tropical and subtropical Australia, including rainforests, woodlands, and even urban areas (but not cafes).
Giant Grasshopper (Valanga irregularis)
Close to the cafe, I saw some activity from bowerbirds and I searched around and found quite a big bower with a lot of cafe detritus decorating it. It was all white or clear plastic, which was kind of cool and kind of a shame at the same time.
Great Bowerbird (Chlamydera nuchalis)
Throughout both of these areas, I could hear the White-gaped Honeyeater singing. It's sort of a warbling call that is very attractive. They're very difficult to photograph because they just don't sit still for very long. I think they're one of the most active of the honey eaters, always on the move. Despite their kind of dumpy appearance and nature, they are often on the wing so I haven't got a great photograph of one yet, but I guess I'll keep trying. The most beautiful noise of all, of course, was made by the Green Oriole. In Far North Queensland, they're known as the sound of the tropics, so it was very nice to see and hear this bird. Once it finished posing for me, it then went and flew up to the top of the cafe and started attacking its own reflection. I hope for not too long.
Green Oriole (Oriolus flavocinctus)
White-gaped Honeyeater (Stomiopera unicolor)