Lockhart River

Visited: summer

Recommendation: This is somewhere you definitely should visit but choose carefully about when and what you want to see. 

It may have been a bit risky but we decided to visit Lockhart River at the end of January, right in the middle of the wet season. The advantages were that it is peak activity time for wildlife but the disadvantage was that it was likely to be monsoon conditions. But the gamble paid off with stunning scenery (see the deserted Chilli Beach above), very few people and perfect weather - if a bit hot and humid. 

We stayed at the Greenhoose, a fabulous and isolated resort (term used loosely) just outside Lockhart River. It is right in the rainforest and the accommodation, while basic, was cool and clean with long decks outside where you could just sit and wait for the wildlife when the heat became too much. A step off the deck and the thick rainforest took over. 

There are around 20 endemic birds in this area and while we heard most, glimpsed some, photography was very difficult with precious few birds presenting themselves nicely. One of the most interesting aspects of the area was the night-time spotlighting possibilities. The roads were very quiet and safe and there were many tracks surrounding the property. 

We explored some other places close to the Greenhoose after hiring a car for a day. One of the best areas was the local water treatment plant. Luckily, my companion Mark is already used to my desire to always visit the local sewage farms! It was great with some uncommon birds in the area.

We also explored the coast to the north of Lockhart River. About 40 along reasonably good roads with only a few bumps and scares was Chilli Beach. It was unbelievably beautiful and made me thankful that the north Queensland coast remains so undeveloped. I never thought I would be grateful for crocs, stingers and sharks! All that was with us on the beach were some shorebirds and despite the very high heat, photography was a little easier.

It was a case of the little and the large on the beach with the tiny Large-billed Gerygone calling from the bushes and the very large Brahminy Kite wheeling above in the sunshine. I thought this bird was actually a Whistling Kite because of the patterns under the wing but I watched as it flew with 2 adult Brahminy Kites and it looked like they were teaching it how to hunt.

Brahminy Kite (Haliastur indus)

Close to Chilli Beach was the settlement of Portland Roads, which despite only being a collection of a few houses, has the reputation of providing the best fish and chips in Cape York at the local cafe. Unfortunately, it wasn't open when we visited. To make up for it were a dozen or so frigatebirds which circled the tiny beach. It was quite mesmerizing. 

Possibly the highlight of the stay at Lockhart River was actually not even a bird. The area is known for being home to the fascinating Green Tree Python and this was a target for us to find. They are quite small, about 1 metre long and they hang from grass stalks or branches with their head only a few centimetres from the ground. They stay motionless, waiting for suitable prey to pass underneath. They are also so bright green that they are almost neon.