Visited: autumn
Recommendation: This is a stunning area with so many different spots to visit. The reptiles in particular, seemed to loved this mix of heath and rocks. Worth a visit for the scenery alone.
The history of Cape Le Grand stretches from ancient Aboriginal use, through early European exploration, to its modern status as a protected natural area, attracting visitors from around the world. It was officially gazetted as an "A" class Reserve for a National Park in 1948. In 1966, the park was vested in the National Parks Board of Western Australia, marking a significant step in formal conservation efforts. The park's area has been expanded over time to protect its unique natural features.
Today, Cape Le Grand National Park is recognized for its pristine beaches, stunning coastal scenery, and diverse flora and fauna with ongoing conservation efforts focus on protecting the park's natural and cultural heritage. Places like Lucky Bay are continually flagged as one of the best beaches in Australia. It is hard to argue with that and it is certainly popular. The campsite is quite large and booked out for months in advance.
There are lots of places to visit within the national park and further east towards Cape Arid. Hellfire Bay, Frenchman Peak, Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay all offer incredible views of the coast line and there are any walking tracks around and in between them. The birds were not abundant when I visited several times in the autumn. A few gannets sat on the water of Lucky Bay, Pacific Gulls patrolled the coastal cliffs and New Holland Honeyeaters scratched around in the bushes.
But that was ok, because I was there for the reptiles. On a warm afternoon with the temperature just sneaking above 25 degrees, I visited Hellfire Bay. The area was stunning with turquoise water, white suff and a golden beach. The area closest to the carpark began in heath scrub and quickly changed into large slabs of rock. As I scrabbled around, I began to see crevice skinks. They ranged from a dull grey to this more vibrant brown. Not very tolerant of me but wishing to sit in the sun, they eventually came out more as I sat still.
Southwestern Crevice Skink (Egernia napoleonis)
Hellfire Bay
After finding around 10 of the crevice-skinks, I made my way down the rocks and found this Red-legged Ctenotus. It was very attractive but I only got one shot before it darted under a bush. I sat for a while, hoping it would come back out but it didn't.
Red-legged Ctenotus (Ctenotus labillardieri)
On another warm afternoon I started to walk along the track between Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay. It was scrabbly rock, steep in places but very manageable even in the windy conditions. The track starts off on heathy sand and I was only a few hundred metres in when I found a Shingleback Skink, sitting on the side. It was quite lethargic so I took a couple of shots and left it to warm up.
Shingleback Skink (Tiliqua rugosa)
As the heath gave way to large, slaty rocks, I began to see small dragons sitting in the sun. The stripy tails were a giveaway that these were Ornate Crevice Dragons. I spent some time looking for larger sized ones and were rewarded with a lot of views. I didn't get great shots as there was a lot of glare and for a distinctly patterned animal, these dragons were very cryptic.
Ornate Crevice Dragon (Ctenophorus ornatus)
On my way out of the area, a Tiger Snake was crossing the road. I managed to get a few shots before it disappeared into the heath. I have seen a few of these beautiful snakes in this area but they are very shy and shoot away when they see you. Usually found near water, they are venomous and overall I am quite glad that they usually run (so to speak) away.
Tiger Snake (Notechis scutatus)
Also on one of the roads in Cape Le Grande was a dark wallaby. This was my first look at the area's brush wallaby. When I looked it up, I found they are also called the black-gloved wallaby which is very apt.
These shy marsupials are confined to the southwestern coastal region of Western Australia, specifically, from north of Kalbarri down to Cape Arid. They prefer open forests or woodlands.
Western Brush Wallaby (Notamacropus irma)