Musgrave, Cape York

Visited: winter

Recommendation: I went this far into Cape York to look for a known population of Red Goshawk. I would stop here again if I was passing but probably not as a wildlife destination, especially as I am still in a 2 wheel drive vehicle.

Musgrave is the furthest north I have been on Cape York. Actually, I made it about 40km north of the roadhouse before turning back. I had hoped to get to Weipa on the west coast but as well as being very wild, the roads are terrible to drive on. I was the only 2wd vehicle or campervan on the road and I could feel the waves of disbelief heading my way from the big 4wd utes and trucks around me. I didn't think I was on a fools errand as everyone I spoke to thought I could make it to Weipa. 

Cape York is the wildest place I have been to in Australia. Its like the jungle meets the Outback. There is a plethora of wildlife here from dingo, roos to birds. It is also stunningly beautiful. I loved driving through it where the road was sealed but where the road was not sealed, it was terrifying. While the road remains wide, it changes rapidly from sand to gravel to patches of old concrete. As well as contending with the infamous corrugations, there are areas of debris, dust holes and sudden changes from one to another. On top of that is the never ending dust that means I have to strip the van to clean it when I get back onto solid ground. It is not a place for a campervan with a high centre of gravity and a water tank slung underneath. 

Although I didn't make it too far north on Cape York, I did start to see some of the more exotic birds there. The Silver-crowned Friarbird was my first find. It was only when I got the photos that I could confirm it as the bird looked very similar to the Noisy and Helmeted species. Birding can come down to the slightest difference and my field guide diagnostic is the sharp point at the back of the facial patch. 

Next up was the rather elusive Red Goshawk. They are rare, cryptic and shy as they stick to the foliage high in the trees. The Cairns Birders Facebook group is a great source of information and the members are always helpful and willing to share. They gave me a lead on where to find a nesting pair - and I did. It was not too far from the roadhouse and the nest was inactive but the birds were still hanging around the area. 

Freshwater Crocodile (Crocodylus johnsoni)

The roadhouse had a decent footprint and lots of trees in the caravan park so I was able to explore and there was a lot of activity. As usual, the water brought a range of birds to it.